Dore and Totley railway station has taken on a very modern look in recent years, with a huge car park and an eye-catching footbridge that seems to owe much to the brutalist school of architecture. Such is life, we have to move with the times.

But one element of this Sheffield landmark remains gloriously old school and defiantly out-of-step with recent makeovers. The original railway station building, a beautifully restored high-gabled throwback to a gentler age, is lovely to look at, a period piece well worth saving.

Even better, step inside and you won’t find a musty old museum piece but a tastefully decorated Indian restaurant situated directly on the platform of the Sheffield to Manchester line.

We visited Rajdhani on a glorious summer’s evening at the height of World Cup fever and it was a pleasure to step into this world of relaxed, impeccable service and spicy treats.

Two ultra-crisp and fresh poppadums (£0.90 each) and a pickle tray with six different saucers of spicy goodness (£3.50) helped to reassure us that we were in good hands.

Then came two top-notch starters. Lamb chops (£12.90) were tender and juicy, nicely char-grilled with a winning marinade of Indian spices, garlic, ginger and Worcester sauce ensuring every mouthful was a real flavour bomb. For a more subtle start to the meal, fish pakora (£9.90) with delicately spiced pieces of filleted white fish in a light, crispy batter was a calming treat.

For mains a selection of three dishes between two very hungry gentlemen proved to be just right, if borderline gluttony. 

Chicken rezala (£14.90) was a lovely mix of sweet caramelised red onion, aromatic cardamom, spices and large chunks of tender chicken breast. Gosht baltin zafrani (£15.90) was an outstanding combination of flavoursome lamb in a rich garlic, ginger, almond and coconut cream with crushed black pepper.

The wildcard among our main course selections was the achari paneer (£14.90). I’m a big fan of paneer, normally when served as a mild side dish with peas in a cream sauce. This had more of a kick with the taste of North Indian pickles just strong enough to pep everything up.

Every good Indian meal demands first rate side dishes to mop up those (hopefully) delicious sauce, and Rajdhani did not disappoint. The garlic and coriander nan (£3.90) was fresh, charred and slightly chewy with a generous sprinkling of fresh herbs. Saffron pilau rice was very light and fluffy, just right.

There’s a very good wine list, but on one of the hottest days of the year this Indian feast demanded chilled beers and large bottles of Cobra and Kingfisher (both £6.50) hit the spot perfectly.

It may be slightly off the radar compared to the many Sheffield restaurants with a constant footfall on Ecclesall Road and other culinary hot spots, but this first-rate Indian diner has its own loyal clientele, and it is easy to see why. Rajdhani is definitely on the right track.

Rajdhani
The Old Station, Abbeydale Road South, Sheffield, S17 3LB
Tel: 0114 551 7415
www.rajdhanisheffield.co.uk