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It’s a common-held theory that Sheffield is so often a city that undersells itself. We just never seem to feel entirely comfortable telling – and showing – others how good we are, which is a shame given we have, and do, so many brilliant things.

We’re the greenest city in Europe. Football originated here. Our musical heritage is second to none. And we manufacture some unbelievable things. So why don’t we shout about it a bit more?

Take Buffalo Systems for example. This is a company we need to talk about – and not just in Sheffield but much further afield. Having started in 1979, its revolutionary outdoor clothing and equipment is considered some of the best in the world yet few Sheffielders will have heard of them.

But that could be all about to change. 

A couple of months ago it was announced that the Broadfield Road company had been bought by adventurer, TV personality and writer, Ben Fogle, and his friend and business partner, James Sleater.

Both long-standing wearers and fans of the brand, the pair are keen to break the Sheffield mould and shout about this amazing business, its history and its legacy, all while keeping it very much a local enterprise. This ‘Made in Sheffield’ brand will remain very much just that.

The idea for Buffalo Systems came in the 1970s when mountaineer Hamish Hamilton began thinking about sleeping bags. Being discontented with the bags and clothing he had been using in winter in the Scottish highlands, he became intrigued by how the indigenous people of the Arctic Circle kept warm, utilising animal hide with the fur on the inside.

By reversing the hide so that the tips of the fur were in contact with the skin, they found that moisture laden air was able to circulate and escape through the porous hide. Even in heavy rain, and after vigorous exercise, their skin remained dry and safe from freezing as the fur’s properties ensured water was removed quickly from the garment. This led to the creation of the patented DP System which utilised a water-repellent outer layer (Pertex) combined with a soft, almost fur-like, inner layer (pile). 

Hamish soon realised this system was also well-suited to clothing and so he began to create products for serious outdoor people.

Today, Buffalo Systems make over 50 products, ranging from jackets, shirts and gilets to trousers, mitts and hoods. The iconic Buffalo Mountain shirt – winner of the Outdoor Writers Guild Golden Boot award in 1986 – remains one of the most copied garments in the outdoor industry. 

Two men engaged in conversation in a clothing manufacturing workshop, surrounded by fabric rolls and patterns.

At present, Buffalo Systems work in more of a wholesale capacity, making garments that are then distributed and sold at a network of outdoor shops around the country. One way in which Ben and James aim to change and grow the business is by selling direct to consumer. Their first steps will be the launch of a new website, complete with online shop.

“There’s an incredible amount of opportunity here,” said James. “Wholesale is fine but you work on such a slim margin that it means it’s pretty hard to grow and develop and you’re at the whim of the people you supply to rather than building your own brand.

“Buffalo Systems has got a really evangelical following, it has almost cult status. Ben had a meeting with Barbour and the guy described it as the ‘last independent untapped British brand that exists’. That’s about as big a compliment as you can get.”

One of the next challenges facing Ben and James is that by selling direct to consumer, they have to make sure they can meet demand, something that has been an issue in recent years. 

“Ben’s been wearing Buffalo for 20 years, I suppose I’ve been wearing it for ten years,” commented James. “I suppose our real frustration has been getting hold of it. We want to change that.”

One of the easiest ways to instantly grow inventory – and profits – is by moving production overseas but this is something the pair are vehemently against. Everything is handmade here in Sheffield by an expert team, which will remain in place and be expanded in the coming months and years.

“The beating heart of this business is here, to strip that out of it would be a horrible thing to do,” confirmed James. “All the staff can see the vision and are excited about the next chapter. We need to do the right thing by them. We’re custodians of this business, we’re holding on to this for the next generation and the idea is to build it and put it level-pegging with those other big outdoor brands like Rab, Berghaus and Montane.

“This is a garment that’s built to last so even though it costs a little bit more to make in the UK, let’s say you’re buying a jacket for £300 and it lasts for 30 years, it’s probably going to be the cheapest item you’re ever going to buy on a cost per use basis. “

“We have bought a Sheffield business and we’re celebrating Sheffield and its manufacturing,” echoed Ben. “We don’t mind growing slowly as long as we’re growing the right way. Very few outdoor brands manufacture in the UK. This is one of our massive USPs.”

James’s background is in fashion, he owns a couple of tailoring companies on Savile Row and met Ben through one of these, eventually becoming friends and bonding over all things outdoors and clothing, especially Buffalo Systems. 

Close-up of a green outdoor jacket showing the Buffalo Systems logo on a black label.

It was over a coffee one day that the pair floated the idea of potentially buying the brand. Ben, who at present spends around 70 per cent of the year travelling abroad, was looking for an opportunity that would give him further roots and an excuse to spend more time in Britain and liked the idea of working in something he was really invested in. 

“I’m not a businessman but even with my non-business hat I realised the potential of this,” said Ben. “When I came to meet the previous owners, Sue and John, I realised it was something they were maybe considering. It was quite an awkward question to be honest.

“James understands sewing machines and staff and locations, sourcing fabrics. Mine is bringing marketing, story-telling, social media, websites… this is a 46-year-old company and actually if you look at the umbrella of the same brands that started at the same time as Buffalo, all those brands have gone stratospheric.” 

Whatever Ben said clearly connected with Sue Mansell and John Rockall and now he and James have the opportunity to set about achieving their vision for this little-known company. 

Don’t be surprised to see the Buffalo Systems logo appearing much more frequently in the coming weeks and months as the pair embark on sharing the company’s story. 

Behind the scenes they are planning to refine the product line, mainly to help them meet demand, as well as introduce entry price point products such as branded t-shirts, enamelware mugs and bags for example. 

Buffalo Systems clothing may meet the needs of serious adventurers but it’s just as practical for the everyday.

“I liken [the brand] to a Range Rover,” explained James. “A Range Rover can do anything, it can drive you anywhere, but probably 90 per cent of the time it stays on a road. Most people wearing any of this kit, it has to be as practical for taking your dog for a walk as it does to go fell walking.”

Maybe it takes a couple of ‘outsiders’ showing us that shouting about what we do well is no bad thing. No doubt we’ll be hearing a lot more about Buffalo Systems in time and it may not just become a household name in the city but around the world too. 

It should be quite the adventure.

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